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ISLAND OF SUSAKZvonko Springer, Salzburg, Austria, 1999 During our holidays in May 1998 we got a chance to make a boat trip to SUSAK Island. We boarded a medium size motor boat at CIKAT bay that took about 45 minutes to arrive at Susak's small harbor. This trip was for me a kind of old time remembrance as I made the same passage some 49 years ago. At those times Susak had still good economic basis which declined precipitously in the following 35 years. The exposed position of Susak at northern Adriatic and its vicinity to Italy caused this decline. Yugoslav Navy closed the island to foreign tourist and one needed police's permission to go over in a fisherman's boat from Mali Losinj harbor. It may be of some interest to see how the Islands' population changed during the period from 1857 to 1991 in some Adriatic islands. As a random sample I choose two most exposed islands from military point of view (Susak and Vis) and four other Adriatic islands down the coast. I believe the above data give quite a significant information
about the major emigration periods from six Adriatic islands. The islands
changed hands between states like: Italy, Austrian-Hungarian Double
Monarchy, to Kingdom of Yugoslavia and as from 1945 all to S.F.R. Yugoslavia.
Susak is truly small island being 3 km long and 1.5 km wide. Its relief is
not flat everywhere as there are depressions and ravines, which appeared as
the result of loose sand erosion. Flat areas occupy the largest percentage
of the island (253 ha or 67%), coves and depression some 107 ha or 29% while
the rest the total island surface (15 ha or 4%) occupies the only settlement.
It's a small wonder of nature differing by many characteristics to other Adriatic
islands. The thick layers of minute sand of Aeolian origin cover deep down
basic calcareous foundation of the island. One still doesn't know exactly how
this sandy island developed. The first researches started Abbot Albert Fortis
in 1770 and in 1903 D. Gorjanovic suggested that lower sandy layers were sediments
created by the inflow of river Po. The upper layers of yellow sandy loamy material
are Aeolin alluvion blown and deposited on top here. In thick layers of fine
sand are concealed remnants of terrestrial snails but there aren't any remnants
of sea life organisms (A. Bognar, 1979). It has also been suggested that submarine
springs caused sand accumulation which surfaced with tectonic elevations.
Ivan the Deacon mentioned the island's name as SANSAGUS in the Venetian chronicle
for the first time in 844. Surprisingly there is a large number of old nautical
charts, where the island is mentioned under the name of SUSAK. It was an important
navigational western point of the archipelago on the outer sea passage from
Istria to central Dalmatia. The oldest nautical chart, which mentions Susak,
is "Carta Pisana" from the late 13th century. Its name is also found on 14th
and 15th century charts including all the charts of Dutch and Italian cartographers
of 16th century. Sgrooten's chart from 1593 contains for the first time a scheme
of the settlement. Cornellius' chart from the late 17th century mentions the
settlement's name with a tower as "Villa e torre di Sansego". In a more detailed
chart by A. Fortis of 1771 shown is a settlement with the church , a harbor
and a few coves and capes.
Northward aerial view of the Old Susak - the Upper settlement - and
the island's harbor.
The island's history is painful but glorious since it has been exposed to
conquest, plunder and violation of basic human rights, freedom and dignity.
First known inhabitants were the Illyrians and some Greek sailors reached also
this island. Romans settled down here some time before the birth of Christ.
Under their domination Susak and other islands of Kvarner area, Istria and
Dalmatia fall under the jurisdiction of the Province of Dalmatia. Together
they became a part of the Illyrian Province.
The Croats populated these islands in the early Middle Ages. After their immigration
they lived together with other inhabitants under the supreme rule of the Byzantine
Emperor. These islands became a part of the Croatian Kingdom during 10th and
11th centuries, which was reigned by a Hungarian king later. The Venetian Republic
ruled over some islands until 1797 when they become part of the Napoleon's
Illyria until 1815. The Austrian-Hungarian Monarchy annexed this region as
per the Viennese congress' resolution. Susak stays under Monarchy's domination
until the end of WW1 when it falls to Italy (the Treaty of Rapallo). There
was a short partisan administration in 1943 until the German army occupied
Susak staying there until end of WW2 in 1945. At last Susak became part of
S.F.R. Yugoslavia upon Peace Treaty of Paris in 1947.
I've noticed some people having a different complexion compared to the other
islanders during my first visit to Susak in 1949. One told us about several
French armies' deserters who found refuge on the island early in 18th century.
Soon after problems aggravated with the Yugoslav Navy on Susak which caused
the great population exodus.
Now, 49 years later, Susak's small harbor provides a perfect mooring for sailing
boats. Close to it a new settlement sprang out on old ground and one sees a
lot of building activities still going on. In the Lower Susak one sees mostly
renovated old houses and several newly built ones for tourists. There are few
new commercial venues like restaurants, rent-a-houses and a new wine merchant
enterprise. One has to ascend a steep stairway to get to the historical old
or Upper Susak. We've visited there the recently refurbished Parish church
where I've met Don Antun Turcic who presented me the first copy of his book
(used for reference here). Most impressing of impressing items in the church
is the cross "Veli Buoh" (Great God). Nobody knows how this cross (estimated
from 12th century) came to the island but a legend says that it was washed
ashore. Along a ravine grows reed and bamboo in the sandy loom of the island's
higher plateau.
One of Susak's ravine with reed and bamboo Walking on a slightly ascending
path out of the village one comes soon to island's only graveyard "Merina" and
its chapel of Mournful Lady. I was astonished finding there so many new tombs
belonging to people who had emigrated and returned to their native ground
as the dead only. It's interesting that there are rather few surnames engraved
on white tombstones. These are family's surnames some of which still exist
on the island today like: Busanic (6 families), Hroncic (1), Lister (2),
Matesic
(12), Mirkovic (1), Morin (9), Picinic (18), Sutora (1), Skrivanic (5) and
Tarabokija (11).
Simple working attire of older female has two main characteristics: a very
short black skirt "kamizot" hardly reaching knees, a vest called "bust" which
tightens chest and waist so that the upper part of the body looks elongated.
Bust is a sleeveless vest made of red or blue cloth and worn over a white cotton
shirt tightened around the neck with a "bravaroul" made of white flaxen cambric.
Black kamizot is opened at sides under which one sees several white kamizots
called "suknica". Long linen underpants "mudande" can't be seen. High red socks
or slippers "kalcete" are knitted wooden of thin wool weave which reach above
knees.
There are many more traditional parts of women's "po losinsku" costume to
mention few: a blouse "zabajka", a little apron of artificial silk "tarvijerlica",
under folded kamizot worn are many colored under skirts "sukna rakaman". Feet
are in pink socks and in leather shoes "postoli" and the wedding crown is known
as "vijel".
The men's costume looks like from a recent period resembling the one from
island Cres and is less attractive then women's one. It consists of a soft
and wide black cap, ordinary shirt with white collar, black linen vest, black
traditionally cut trousers held by simple belt of knitted of red or pink ribbon
looking like a rope. The festive belt is wider and solid pink ribbon decorated
with colorful threads.
There aren't any special means of defense against the darkness except physical
resistance and one special element, which can be used against all kinds of
evil "Fire". Old inhabitants believe that darkness exists on places like at "Obis" and
at "Puntina" and nobody should go there. Those who went would get sick and
die soon. Night darkness can harm clothes that a mother had left over night
outside to be dried and such can harm a child. It can be fought by fire so
a person who carries a torch or just smokes a cigarette is immune to the dark
evil influence. Clothes, which were under the influence of darkness, should
be put above a fireplace and a circle made around of burning fire.
The society organizes a big dance four times a year where it collects the
money that will be used to help all those in need and for society's needs.
The money was also used for renovating St. Nicholas parish church and Merina
graveyard on the native island of Susak. There were about 200 members who celebrated
Society's 25th anniversary at St. Anna's church in Hoboken. The Society moved
to Fairview in New Jersey as from November 1985.
Source:
(1) Don Antun Turcic: SUSAK - the Island of sand, reed and vineyards; (2) Petar Strcic, Prof. DSc. Et Al.: CROATIAN ADRIATIC ISLANDS;
Email Zvonko Springer at : zzspri@aon.at
Coratia - its History, Culture and Science
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